Stuck between two? We'll call it.
Every comparison starts with a quick verdict and the one difference that decides it, then a side-by-side spec table and a pick for each kind of buyer.
Treadmills
- Curved vs flat treadmillA curved treadmill has no motor, so your legs set the pace and you pay for that in effort and dollars. A flat motorized treadmill sets the pace for you, folds, and costs a fraction as much.See the verdict
- Horizon 7.0 AT vs 7.4 ATPay about $500 more for the 7.4 AT if you're over 6 ft or over 250 lb, because it gets a 22-inch belt, a 3.5 CHP motor and a 350 lb rating. Under both lines, the 7.0 AT is the same interval treadmill for less.See the verdict
- NordicTrack 1750 vs 1250Pay about $500 more for the 1750 if you run, because it gets a 22 x 60 in belt and a 3.5 CHP motor. If you walk and hike on incline with iFIT, the 1250 gives you the same decline and the same classes for less.See the verdict
- Peloton vs NordicTrack treadmillBuy the NordicTrack 1750 if you run a lot: it has a 22 x 60 in belt, 3% decline and a fold for $500 to $1,300 less. Buy the Peloton Tread if the classes are the point and your room only fits its 68-inch frame.See the verdict
- Sole F63 vs F80The F80's belt is 22 inches wide against the F63's 20. For a walker or a runner under 6 ft who lands cleanly, 20 inches is plenty and the F63 saves about $500; for a tall runner or anyone over 250 lb, the extra width is worth paying for.See the verdict
- Sole F80 vs F85If the heaviest runner in the house is over 250 lb or logs more than 20 miles a week, the F85's 4.0 HP motor and 375 lb rating are worth about $600. Otherwise the F80 is the same treadmill for less.See the verdict
- Sole vs NordicTrackIf you'll keep paying for iFIT, the NordicTrack Commercial 1750's auto-adjusting incline and decline make it the more enjoyable machine. If you won't, the Sole F80 has the same 22-inch belt, a higher weight rating and a lifetime frame and motor warranty for about $600 less, with nothing on the console that stops working.See the verdict
- Treadmill vs ellipticalA treadmill makes you land on every stride and an elliptical never lets your feet leave the pedals. If impact is the problem, get the elliptical; if you want to run, get the treadmill.See the verdict
- Treadmill vs StairMasterA stair climber only goes up, which makes every minute harder and the machine far more limited. A treadmill covers a stroll, a steep climb and a run, and that range is what a home needs.See the verdict
Walking pads
- Treadmill vs walking padIf you'll ever jog, even for a minute, you need a treadmill. If the machine has to disappear under a sofa when you're done, you need a walking pad.See the verdict
- WalkingPad C2 vs Z1The specs match down to the motor and belt, so the deck decides it. The C2 is the sturdier build at 62 lb and the one to buy for daily use or if you're near 220 lb; the Z1 is thinner, weighs 55 lb and typically costs about $150 less.See the verdict
Ellipticals
- Arc trainer vs ellipticalAn arc trainer keeps your knee behind your toes and feels like a climb, but it's commercial gear. An elliptical moves your feet in a flat oval, costs a fraction as much, and is the one that fits a home.See the verdict
- Elliptical vs exercise bikeAn elliptical keeps you standing and works your arms and legs together. A bike sits you down, which makes it easier on your joints and your ceiling, and easier to coast on.See the verdict
- Rowing machine vs ellipticalA rower works your legs, back and arms in one stroke but needs about 8 feet of floor and some technique. An elliptical works mostly your legs, stands on less floor, and asks nothing of your form.See the verdict
- Sole E25 vs E35The stride is 20 inches on both, so they feel the same underfoot. Pay about $600 more for the E35 if you're over 300 lb, want a heavier 25 lb flywheel for long sessions, or want a touchscreen; otherwise buy the E25.See the verdict